In the diary: bonfire bacchanalia
Posted by Sarah on October 22nd, 2009LEWES BONFIRE
Date 5 November
Place Lewes, East Sussex
Style Pyro pandemonium
Setting Not-so-sleepy Sussex streets
Indulge your pagan and your pyromaniac urges with the UK’s greatest bonfire bacchanale.
Event Highlight The Bonfire Societies signal the start of the processions by racing barrels of burning tar down the High Street at 6.30pm, after which the whole town seems to parade past in a variety of outlandish outfits. Guy Fawkes gets his comeuppance from around 22h, when bonfires, effigies and several tons of fireworks go up in smoke at five separate fire sites.
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IN THE KNOW
Head count Around 60,000 pairs of eardrums attend the event each year; most will still be ringing the next.
Packing tips Despite the efforts of the local firestarters, you’ll still need warm clothes. It can be cold, damp, smoky and windy, and there will be sparks flying, so wear something you don’t mind getting singed or smoked. (Shell suits not advisable.)
Bar chat The Lewes folk are very proud of their locally brewed beverage, Harveys bitter; when a landlord stopped serving it, one of the Bonfire Societies burnt an effigy of him next to Guy Fawkes.
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DOS & DON’TS
• Make sure you have enough cash on you – getting to an ATM is an epic and often fruitless challenge.
• Don’t bring children or pets, and don’t set off your own fireworks (unless you want to get arrested).
• Wear appropriate shoes; the fire sites can be muddy.
• Don’t try to get involved in the procession. A magistrate who interfered in 1847 got thrown in the River Ouse; these days, they throw in a burning barrel as a reminder.
• A lot of the pubs will be closed to all but long-term regulars: bring a hip flask of firewater to help combat the nippy night air.
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NEED TO KNOW
Getting there By car, take the M23 to Brighton and then the A27 to Lewes; bear in mind that roads in and out of Lewes are closed to traffic on the night. There are regular direct trains from London Victoria and London Bridge to Lewes. At the end of the event, trains ferry the thousands of visitors to Brighton, eight miles away; the queue is long and the trains very crowded.
Children Smaller children may well find the Lewes experience a bit overwhelming. You are strongly advised not to bring under-11s, especially those in pushchairs, who are at greater risk from stray fireworks.
Parking The centre of Lewes is closed to traffic from 5pm onwards (sometimes earlier). This signals the start of a total parking free-for-all on the roads into town. You’ll have to be early, lucky or blocking someone’s driveway if you want to save yourself a walk of about 10 minutes.
Food & Drink Although many of the pubs on the procession route are very crowded, closed or only open to invited guests, there are still plenty to choose from. The Harveys brewery down by the River Ouse is the location of a very popular hog roast.
Sleep Your best bet is Brighton, eight miles away: try the stylish Square or Drakes on the seafront in trendy Kemptown, or the decadent Blanch House on Atlingworth Street. For full details and more regional hotel listings, or to make a booking, go to www.mrandmrssmith.com, or ring 0845 034 0701.
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