Bonjour, and welcome to the Paris shopping forecast. Need film for your retro Polaroid camera? Want to lay your hands on the finest hand-made French linen, or some 1970s back issues of Vogue? Have we got news for you…
Paris-based stylist Elodie Rambaud has spent years fossicking fleamarkets, foraging antiques fairs and rifling rails in pursuit of one-of-a-kind vintage finds, quirky handicrafts and objets outrés – there ain’t an artisanal workshop or independent interiors boutique in Paris she doesn’t know about. Here, she reveals Paris’ rarest retail finds – on-trend boutiques, off the beaten path – with an extract from her gorgeous new handbook, Paris Style Guide. Lovers of Paris, lovers of shopping: bookmark this for your next stay in Paris.
‘As a Paris-based prop stylist for lifestyle, food and interiors shoots, I spend my time exploring the city in search of the perfect accessory, that unexpected object or ideal colour that will make all the difference to a photo. I check out every new trend and project, always on the lookout for individuals who are at the heart of the city’s style, to provide me with visual, graphic and aesthetic inspiration. Here are some of my favourite addresses, from markets and art suppliers to vintage dealers, kitchen stores and independent designers, many of which surprised me when I first discovered them. Wander through the streets and gardens, through the lovely shops, succumb to pâtisseries, stroll over the Pont des Arts, dream to the sound of a distant accordion on a summer evening. And do it all in style…’ – Elodie Rambaud
BEST FOR HABERDASHERY | ULTRAMOD
Not one, but two unmissable shops in Paris for lovers of ribbons, threads, buttons and general haberdashery. The two shops sit opposite each other on Rue Monsigny and their decor has not changed since they opened in 1890. You’ll find magnificent old ribbons, fabrics, buttons and reels of thread in incredible colours. Everything is organised in old numbered wooden boxes, stacked from floor to ceiling. You’ll want to buy it all.
• Ultramod 3 & 4 rue de Choiseul, Paris 75002 (+33 01 42 96 98 30). Métro Bourse.
BEST FOR TEXTILES | CARAVANE: CHAMBRE 19
One of several Caravane outposts, Chambre 19 is quite spectacular, firstly because of its setting – in which a gigantic palm tree casts shadows on the sofas beneath the glass ceiling – then because of its displays, which change every two months; and finally, of course, because of the objects it sells. The colours and materials are always perfectly brought together in a warm and contemporary style. The fabrics come from India, and apply traditional techniques to contemporary designs.
• Caravane Chambre 19 19 rue St Nicolas, Paris 75012 (+33 01 53 02 96 96). Métro Ledru Rollin.
BEST FOR VINTAGE | PUCES DE SAINT OUEN
This flea market began to take shape in the late nineteenth century. The Malassis area, which for a long time had been a tax-free zone mainly occupied by gypsy caravans, started to attract more and more people. The area became lively with gypsy music and bistros, a place where objects and clothes –fleas included – were bought and sold. The flea market has evolved, but it still offers incredible stories, characters and an element of random luck.
• The Duke is the specialist in American vintage that lures Ralph Lauren across the Atlantic (+33 06 32 37 17 11; Marché Vernaison, 99 Rue des Rosiers, Allée 1, Stand 37).
• Untitled is a collection of clothes and true denim (de Nîmes) exploring the soul of the piece of clothing through the person who wore it (Marché Paul Bert, 96 rue des Rosiers, Allée 1, Stand 122).
BEST FOR CONTEMPORARY INTERIORS | COLONEL
Created in 2010 by Isabelle Gilles and Yann Poncelet, the Colonel label and shop offers limited series of objects and furniture designed by the duo and produced by French artisans. Beechwood tables with simple lines, lampshades made from colourful fabrics or sycamore ply, and armchairs inspired by the camping chairs of the 1960s create a universe that’s fresh and contemporary. Alongside these colourful designs are fine names such as Denmark’s HAY and the Belgian Nuée.
• Colonel 14 avenue Richerand, Paris 75010 (+33 01 83 89 69 22). Métro Jacques Bonsergent.
BEST FOR CANDLES & SCENTS | CIRE TRUDON
Cire Trudon has played a part in the history of the French monarchy since 1643, first as a supplier of wax to Versailles, then as a candle maker for Napoléon. The house of Trudon has managed to survive all those years and remains a benchmark for scented candles around the world. At Cire Trudon you’ll find their iconic scented candles, pillar candles with cameos and a huge variety of candle colours. Cire Trudon has also revived the ‘stink bomb’ – tiny throw-down vials of scent which fortunately release an exquisite perfume.
• Cire Trudon 78 rue de Seine, Paris 75006 (+33 01 43 26 46 50). Métro Odéon.
BEST FOR JEWELLERY | MARION VIDAL
Marion Vidal’s jewellery is geometric and architectural, with a taste for colour and beautiful materials. You’ll find matinée necklaces or chokers, which can be worn with simple or formal outfits, bracelets, as well as pieces she has designed for native brands including Baccarat, Le Bon Marché and Christofle.
• Marion Vidal 13 avenue Trudaine, Paris 75009 (+33 01 49 24 04 01).
BEST FOR FLOWERS | STÉPHANE CHAPELLE
The term ‘florist’ doesn’t do it justice: the gold-painted walls of this boutique show the patina of time and provide an elegant setting for a refined selection. Outside, a forest of shrubs and greenery invites us to slow down. Inside are flowering branches of cherry and pear blossom and hydrangeas. Stéphane Chapelle goes to Rungis market every morning to fill last-minute orders and source the best for his customers.
• Stéphane Chapelle 29 rue de Richelieu, Paris 75001 (+33 01 42 60 65 66). Métro Palais-Royal – Musée du Louvre.
BEST FOR STATIONERY | PAPIER +
This store has been in existence since 1976 and sells a wide range of notebooks, photo albums and presentation boxes. Each line is made by French artisans. Some customers have been returning for more than ten years, often buying the same notebook in the same format and colour and filling them with notes to keep as memoirs. One regular patron bought his 260th volume this year. Now, that’s noteworthy.
• Papier Plus 9 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, Paris 75004 (+33 01 42 77 70 49). Métro Pont Marie.
BEST FOR LEATHER | ISAAC REINA
The pieces at Isaac Reina are simple, everyday objects: A4 document holders with elastic closures, toiletry bags, spectacles cases. They are made from beautiful leather, hand-crafted and high quality. Isaac Reina worked for eight years as an assistant to Veronique Nichanian, the creative director of the menswear collection at Hermès, and launched his first collection in 2006.
• Isaac Reina 38 rue de Sévigné, Paris 75003 (+33 01 42 78 81 95). Métro Saint-Paul.
BEST FOR KITCHENWARE | E DEHILLERIN
Famous among food lovers all over the world for its window display, E. Dehillerin is a Parisian institution. The store reflects the old Paris. On the unvarnished wooden shelves are implements that have all but disappeared with the evolution of cooking. Attelets, for example, a sort of metal skewer topped with an ornamental hare, rooster or pig, once used for fancy dishes like canard a l’orange. There are no electrical gadgets here, it is a temple to traditional cuisine- copper tarte tatin moulds, charlotte moulds, knives, roasting trays and giant saucepans. The place is usually packed, so be patient.
• E Dehillerin 18–20 rue Coquillière, Paris 75001. (+33 01 42 36 53 13). E-DEHILLERIN.FR. Métro Etienne Marcel or Les Halles.
BEST FOR ARTISAN FOOD | DETOU
Don’t miss the G.Detou food store. It really has it all – all the best-quality products from France and elsewhere, from pieds paquets (an offal delicacy from Marseille) to dried morel mushrooms and a 5-kilogram slab of Valrhona chocolate. It’s a paradise for cooks.
• G Detou 58 rue TIQUETONNE, Paris 75002. (+33 01 42 36 54 67). Métro Etienne Marcel or Les Halles.
BEST FOR SPENDING THE NIGHT | HOTEL DE NELL
Located in the 9th arrondissement, this highly regarded five-star establishment owes much to the expertise of designer Jean-Michel Willmote and restaurateur Bruno Doucet, the chef at La Régalade. The restaurant La Régalade Conservatoireis attached to the hotel.
• Hôtel de Nell 7–9 rue du Conservatoire, Paris 75009. Métro Bonne Nouvelle.
‘Paris Style Guide’ (£16.99; Murdoch Books) by Elodie Rambaud is out now.