Travel Blog – Mr & Mrs Smith Boutique & Luxury Hotels

So, you think you’ve conquered the Italian capital? Been there, done that, slew the lion, end of. Rome – like Paris or London – can bring out the blasé in seasoned long-weekenders. So here are five ways to freshen things up…

Go underground

See the layers of history stripped bare at San Clemente basilica. If you tire of the relatively teenage 12th-century church at ground level, you can head down a level to the excavated 4th-century remains underneath. Still too young? Peer in wonder at the first-century tunnels below that. It’s a double-millennia-spanning layer cake.

Know your oranges

Picnicking visitors and lazing lovers pay scant attention to the ruins in Parco Savello, aka the Orange Garden – instead intoxicated by its graceful shaded groves and epic views atop Aventine Hill. The ruins were part of Savelli castle a thousand years ago. Duck into the restored fifth-century basilica to admire the marble friezes, too.

Dine like a local

You’ll have to put in the legwork to get off the tourist trail, but these three tucked-away trattorie are worth the schlep (and it’s best to book). Try the spaghetti alla carbonara at family-run Da Lucia, on Vicolo del Mattonato, in the Trastevere district (+39 06 580 3601). In Esquilino, a steady trail of local diners testifies to Trattoria Monti’s alchemic ways with fresh local produce (Via di San Vito; +39 06 446 6573). Easier to find is Ristorante Maccheroni on Piazza delle Coppelle – a down-to-the-brick den of superb pasta and simple hospitality (+39 06 830 7895).

Think like a historian

See the sights differently – here are three to start you off. Piazza Navona: never mind eyeing the restaurant terraces – this famed square gets its oddly oblong shape from the first-century stadium it once supported. The Forum: a funny thing happened to it in the 18th century, when excavations began; before this time, the ancient street level you wander around now was covered by centuries of debris. The Pantheon: time to adopt an architect’s eye, and consider the fact this incredible building has a vast, unsupported dome, made of concrete, oh, and it’s over 1,400 years old.

Stay in Smith luxury

We have top-notch pieds à terre for all tastes. Hotel Russie is elegant, city central and cosseted by terraced gardens; Il Palazzetto is its perfectly pint-size neighbour, with just four rooms and a wine academy. Off Via Condotti, Portrait Suites is a hip Ferragamo townhouse. We do a good line in cheat’s ’self-catering’, too (breakfast provided). Residenza Napoleone III is a gorgeously glamorous apartment, adorned with dramatic oils and marble details. And nearby Crossing Condotti is a five-bedroom townhouse, with attentive concierge service.

This entry was posted on Thursday, November 26th, 2009 at 5:36 pm and is filed under Activities, Boutique hotels, Eating & drinking, Italy, Rome, Travel tips, Uncategorized. You can follow any comments on this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a comment, or trackback from your own site.