Is it the twists and turns of the medieval streets? The weathered patina of sandstone? Or just the slippery stretches of cobblestones, worn to a treacherous sheen by centuries of hooves and leather soles?
Whichever way you look at it, Edinburgh simply feels old. Wander to the Grassmarket and you’ll still find the pub Robert Burns once took rooms in. Even the New Town, that handsome grid of high buildings and grand crescents sloping towards the Firth of Forth, dates back to the 18th century.
On a summer’s day, you’ll find students heading for the Meadows with the built-in homing signals of migratory birds, and locals taking their tops off – as generations of Scots have done before them – at the slightest hint of the mighty yellow orb in the sky. Edinburgh, in short, seems impervious to change.
It’s not that it isn’t capable of moving with the times: it just does so at its own pace. After 15 long years of roadworks and diversions, a shiny new tram line now runs from Newhaven all the way to the airport.
The St James Centre, that 1970s eyesore of a shopping centre, has been knocked down to make way for the St James Quarter, a glitzy new development crowned by what some have dubbed ‘the golden jobby’ for its likeness to a certain notorious emoji.
And, having recovered from a late and unsettling introduction to small plates, a once rather staid food scene has started to flourish thanks to the plucky efforts of new culinary talent. Three upgrades to watch out for:
BEST NEW BAKERIES
If finding a decent croissant in Edinburgh once felt like a fool’s errand, the city is now firmly in the grips of a flaky, buttery fever. You can’t go for a stroll without stumbling confusedly into a branch of slow-fermentation experts Twelve Triangles – there are seven of the pared-down bakeries in Edinburgh alone, plus one in the Borders.
Stock up on inspired treats (pul biber pain Suisse, pistachio bramble croissant) for a post-ramble snack. More under the radar is Starter, a weekend pop-up bakery offering brilliant bakes from Leith wine bar Mistral. Pop in at 9am for macaroni pies, Japanese milk buns and other seasonal treats.
For something more extravagant, try Ecosse Eclair, where Turkish chef Can Misirlioglu whips up elaborate choux creations worthy of the best Paris kitchens.
BEST NEW ICE CREAM SHOPS
The Scottish capital has, against all odds, grown a healthy ice cream scene in the space of a few years. First came Mary’s Milk Bar, with its retro stylings and daily-changing flavours. Many more have since jumped on the hipster gelato bandwagon.
Three-time Royal Highland Show Ice Cream Champion (yes, that’s a thing) Alandas started life as a family-run fish and chips shop in East Lothian. The frozen treats are made on site at its first Edinburgh outpost, just across the road from the Greyfriars Bobby statue.
Don’t be fooled by Moo Pie Gelato’s whimsical name: the flavours here (malted milk, carrot cake, hot cross bun) are serious business. For a grown-up treat head straight to Joelato. The coffee’s from Aberfeldy, milk, cream and berries are sourced in Perthshire, and everything’s made from scratch for that perfect scoop.
BEST NEW ASIAN RESTAURANTS
Edinburgh can thank a regular influx of international students for its above-par offering when it comes to Asian-inspired fusion food. Swish Jay Rayner-endorsed Ka Pao is the headliner, but those in the know book ahead for a table at Pomelo in leafy Marchmont instead.
The tiny café only does two dinner sittings, on Friday and Saturdays, so you’ll have to rub shoulders (literally) with locals for the inspired small plates: watermelon salad with candied sesame peanuts, say, or a tender beef hot rib with sweet soy jus and celeriac purée.
Broughton Street’s Lucky Yu is another fun spot, serving the likes of corn ribs, pork in chili peanuts, matcha panna cotta – and excellent cocktails.
THREE MORE FOR THE ROAD
At the Roseate, afternoon tea is served as three classic tiers of dainty sandwiches, home-baked cakes and fluffy scones with jam and clotted cream. Just the thing after a wander along the Water of Leith and a climb up the hill to Modern One and Modern Two of the National Galleries.
Michelin-star chef Tom Kitchin continues his benign rule over the local dining scene. If you can’t make time for an overnighter at his Gullane stay the Bonnie Badger, pop in for lunch at the Scran and Scallie for Orkney scallops, steak pies and a plate of cheeses from local purveyor IJ Mellis.
If you’re getting that travel itch but can’t face the jet lag, stop for brunch at Singapore Coffee House. The small family-style café, run by half-Singaporean Dylan, serves all the big kopitiam hits: curry cuffs, kaya toast, roti canai and cockle-warming cups of frothy teh tarik.
Sleep off your indulgences at one of the Edinburgh hotels in our collection